High Seas to Homer

Hey Everybody!

I'm starting to dislike the line, "We're expecting some weather" or maybe I just don't want to hear about hurricanes when I'm in open water. When last I wrote it was about 9/23....the end of a beautiful & calm day on the water. I had no idea it would come to such a dramatic or LONG end.

The original ferry schedule indicated we would arrive in Homer about 2pm - giving me almost 2 full days to explore this small artsy city. But we were behind due to weather on the southbound journey, so most of us figured we'd arrive between 4-5. Ha! Turns out the stretch of Pacific Ocean between Kodiak and Homer can be more challenging than the Unimak Pass.

After roughly 16hrs of 50-70mph winds with gusts to 80 mph AND 25-30ft seas, we docked in Homer around 9pm. Our Greek taxi driver put it all in perspective. He said the ferry was like an old woman, "always slow & always rocking." I did not get sick, but wasn't having much fun either! Visibility was poor & the captain even considered turning back. I am SO glad he didn't; we'd travelled too far to have to start over the next day! On rare occasions I went on deck for fresh air. Reading became increasingly difficult. I didn't eat (except some crackers & microwave popcorn). The bridge asked us not to move around much. I ran out of sleep, but stayed in bed most of the time.

Here's the interesting part: The Drake Passage seas can reach 45ft and winds can gust up to 100mph. Of course, the vessel & the environment will be different....so maybe....maybe I won't get sick. And look, the Homer Spit has a sign for Cape Horn (part of next month's journey)....only 9,503 miles away!

Sadly, this means I had only one full day in Homer & a rainy day at that, but still I wandered around the spit and through town. I definitely want to return to Homer....a lot of places were already closed for the winter, but it just has a cool vibe. The population is about half that of Kodiak, but it doesn't feel as small.

The Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies proved to be a great find. Not only do they coordinate beach clean-ups and environmental education, but also the staff are cool and kind. I caught a ride to the end of the Spit with one of them & we traded music recommendations in the car. This is one of the plastic debris art projects...

The tip of the Homer Spit

It's so rare to see clean buoys on dry land that I had to include this one.

There are a bunch of stores on the Spit, but nearly all were closed. There is a campground out there too....would LOVE to camp out by the water next trip!

Ok....almost caught up to the present. Flew to Fairbanks on 9/27 hoping to see Northern Lights. Weather is not going to be especially cooperative with that plan, but I am hopeful enough that I have found my viewing spots.

Guess that's all for now. Thanks for stopping by....more soon.

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Heading for Homer

Good Morning (9/23/12),

What a difference a day makes...weather has cleared, the storm dropped new snow on the higher peaks, and the water is much calmer. This morning's sunrise was the nicest of the voyage so far.

The snowy mountain is known as Frosty Peak.

We are still behind schedule by a few hours due to rough waters leaving Dutch yesterday, but the beauty of the trip is that it just doesn't matter. The ferry retraces its southbound path with exceptions (some villages only see the ferry on southbound leg) but our times at port are greatly reduced & usually we are not permitted off the vessel - or told to stay on the dock. The Purser seemed to enjoy saying, "If you plan to leave the dock remember your credit card....for your Alaska Airlines plane ticket." Not exactly subtle, but then this is a working vessel not a pleasure ship.

We are still a long way from Homer....just over 48hrs travel time remains.

Cold Bay was our first stop this morning. King Cove was our second stop & this time we could see it in daylight. The Russian Orthodox father who so many of us chatted with on the ferry on the way down was at the dock to greet us and see off the bus load of children. It's a fishing community with a population of 950.

So: King Cove as we approach the dock

The bus arriving at the dock with boats & crab cages in the background. The kids road the ferry down for athletic competitions & are heading home.

Sand Point was the final stop for today. It was late & dark when we docked here on the way south, so at least tonight we were able to see the community. About 1000 live in this fishing community. Interestingly, most of these windy stops don't use wind turbines because they'd just get knocked down, but here they can.

Finally, sunset after a beautiful day at sea. I watched four pods of Humpbacks this afternoon - from a distance, but always nice to see them. They are travelling quickly to their warm winter quarters in Hawaii. I was pretty confident that I'd see a Fin Whale on this trip, but did not. Weather was not conducive to sightings.

The rest of the ferry trip next post.....

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Finally....Dutch!

Hey Everybody!

While not a BAD voyage by fishing boat standards, I gotta tell you we normal people took a beating from the storm that left snow on Dutch Harbor's tallest peaks overnight. (BTW: Sharm, this isn't first snow I have found for C, but it's the freshest! :-). Actually, some of the crew and long-time AK residents were nauseous and/or sick overnight. Our last stop on Friday evening was False Pass - you know, where a bunch of us had ice cream :-).

Within an hour of that port we were already rocking & tossing on the water. It didn't let up until we arrived to Dutch Harbor a little before Noon - nearly 3hrs late! In short, for a good 15-16hrs we were on a roller coaster. It rained, it hailed, the sun shone & then the rain started up again. Some people were sick all night. Others couldn't sleep because of the rocking and/or noise. Believe me, there was A LOT of both. Luggage fell and slid around, the vessel makes all kinds of loud clanging noises, the wind was howling. I didn't sleep much either due to noise & rocking, but I was never sick. Thankfully!

Unimak Pass - a point where the North Pacific and the Bering Sea collide - has (I hope) proven to be a good test for my upcoming Drake Passage experience. I have been told that we could have had a worse ride down to Dutch. I like to think I'm ready for Drake, but who really knows! What I can say is this: (1) if it had been warmer and drier I would have been sitting outside for part of the trip just because I prefer fresh air in rough waters & of course to watch; (2) there weren't nearly as many fishing boats in the local harbors as I expected in this town of 3500 residents. I've seen way more fishing boats in the smaller communities; and (3) Dutch looks a bit like Hawaii to many people & it's beautiful - except without trees.

As I said, we arrived late, so only had 1/2 a day to explore in a mix of rain, hail, wind, and occasionally glorious sun. We had lunch at the "fancy" hotel, The Grand Aleutian. It was really good....best meal most of us have had for days and days! The other hotel costs about $60 less and it's rumored to be not so nice. Same owners by the way....and both over $100/night.

We saw the old Russian Orthodox church from the yard....bldg was locked. We saw the WWII memorial site. We picked wild blueberries, which were so tasty! No bears here; no worry about wilderness wandering. We roamed stores to check out prices and produce just for something to do to warm up. Oh, and did I mention that IN THE HAIL (ok, it was brief & small, but it was still hail) I found the strength to get FlatJen right up next to a former Deadliest Catch vessel....and, in all honesty, she should thank the person who rescued her from the bear for pointing out the vessel. I didn't have a clue.

Dutch Harbor is the largest fishing port in the USA. But what makes it historically significant is the role it played in WWII. The military personnel cracked enemy codes and fought here. There are WWII bunkers & old bldgs all around.

Coming into Dutch....

Looking first at the bay & then just past the point to the Bering Sea.

Next two pics....as we're leaving Dutch Harbor.

Quick update: A former Dutch resident just told me there were not many boats because most of them come from Anchorage & Seattle. The harbors start to fill up about 2 weeks before a new season so they can ready the boat & stock it, etc. He also said it's not uncommon for 80 boats to arrive in a day. Once the boats arrive they tend to empty out Safeway grocery store to stock their vessels. So, the day before the boats come in all the locals hit the grocery store for their supplies.

PS Capt. Heidi...this is one place where you should NOT bring your boat. There really are big a*s waves here :-)

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Population: 34

Hey Everyone!

It is 9:30AM Alaska time. I made it to Homer (FINALLY) and have only today to explore.....story later. Here's the next installment from the ferry trip. Have a good day. J

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It's true....34 people live in False Pass. During peak fishing season they do get transient workers in the processing plant (currently being expanded). There is a store here - sold Klondike ice cream for $1 & for some crazy reason several of us bought ice cream to eat as we walked around this rather chilly & windy town.

The warehouse & crab traps for the upcoming season.

The view as a fishing boat comes in around 5:45pm.

The town (many of the buildings appeared to be empty). Not surprising when there are ony 34! residents.

We barely left the dock before the wind picked up, rain started to fall, and the white caps grew more visible.

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As it turns out, the southbound trip was a breeze compared to the return trip, but that story later :-)

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Population: 60-65

FYI: almost 5:30AM; still docked in Kodiak, so I'm gonna post another entry.... You can catch up while I'm on the ferry.

Greetings from Cold Bay, Alaska!

We spent 3hrs docked here. The dock walk gets a bit intense in the wind. Even some local drivers worry abut a gust blowing their vehicle into the water!

This community didn't exist until WWII. There was no native village here & most of the 60-65 people are government workers. We met a school teacher for their one school (grades preschool-12th) - currently 9 children. And, get this....the woman attended my alma mater (Rocky Mountain College) in the 70s. What are the chances?! She was at the docks to pickup children & ended up giving 4 of us ferry passengers a ride & 3min tour on the way to work. She said she was just glad for the adult conversation!

We had beautiful weather through the night....some mild rocking, but we will come to a frequently rough pass (Unimak Pass) later tonight where we are expecting "some weather".... so it could get interesting. The pass marks the end of the Alaska Peninsula and the beginning of the Aleutian Islands chain. I have heard, however, that the route between Kodiak & Homer can be worse. Guess I'll find out in a few days.....

I'd be surprised if we were in the 40s right now & it certainly feels colder with the wind blowing. My guess is that Dutch Harbor has the same weather on steroids... At least that's what all the funny (or distressed) looks I see on people's faces suggest when I say I'm going to Dutch for fun.

Things are very expensive here. Gas is about $6/gal. 1/2 gal of milk is nearly $6. I didn't see any gallon jugs for sale. A bag of Ruffles chips & Doritos marked at $7.75. The average monthly water bill is $200 & the monthly heating bills around $1300. And there's an unresolved controversy between a native village wanting to build a road through a wildlife refuge to Cold Bay & environmentalists who believe it will be detrimental. The US Govt. might make a decision on this by late October.

The Bearfoot Inn is a multitasking building as you will see:

We found two working pay phones on our walk through Cold Bay. Interestingly, they are not coin operated. Just pick it up and dial! We are not sure if it's local calls or more.

And, not one to be left out....FlatJen got up close and personal with a huge bear. The hand you see is somebody trying to save her! Not me...obviously. I was trying to get a pic of the bear....

Finally, the view on the way to False Pass (last ferry stop for the day). If you see something that looks like a mountain peak (left) .... it is.

 

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Heading for The Aleutian Chain

FYI: 9/20/12 travel day

Hey Everybody!

We did a lot of rocking & rolling overnight, but nothing like it sometimes gets out here. Today has been calmer & the rain stopped early this afternoon, so I think it's safe to say we lucked out on the first full day of travel.

Our first stop was Chignik Bay - a small fishing village. Actually, there are 3 small communities here. Just prior to docking passengers were informed that the village would be given lunch service first. Sure enough, a line of people were waiting at the dock for a ferry lunch! But I didn't take a pic of that.... This is their fishing dock.

The highlight for me was Castle Cape. It is often covered by fog, but we had a pretty good look at around 1:45pm. I'm glad because I'm pretty sure it'll be dark when we pass it on the northbound voyage. The next pic is Castle Cape from the south side about 30min later...look how nice the weather turned! The cool thing is that in ALL the miles we're traveling there isn't another similar formation.

By the time we arrived in Chignik Bay the trees had essentially disappeared, although they had brush on the mountainsides. Shortly thereafter, even the brush was absent. Weather conditions are too harsh out here for most trees & plants. It's amazing to see this enormous volcanic chain of islands....there seems to be layers of islands with an occasional snowy mountain range in the background.

As if this remote stretch of earth on a sunny day wasn't enough.....FlatJen was called upon once again to rescue a passenger. Not only did she succeed, but she took the time to save first & then pose for the photo with the rescued party. Phew....that last time was really embarrassing....who poses before completing the rescue :-)

We have a few more stops to make before reaching Dutch Harbor on Saturday morning (I think)....but so far no service, so I'll post this when I can. Hope this finds you well....thanks for stopping by!

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Back on the Alaska Marine Highway! (9/19/12)

FYI: posting at 5AM Alaska time while docked in Kodiak. Unknown hours to Homer (should be 9, but weather has slowed us down).

Hey Everybody!

I won't be able to post this until??? But...I am writing before bed on the 19th from somewhere on the water, headed south for the Aleutian Chain Islands. This final day in Kodiak was rainy and windy and not all that nice. The reward for the day's lousy weather, however, was a beautiful evening on the water.

I'm including a few parting shots of the Kodiak area and then sunset from wherever we are....What I can tell you is that there are not many ways to see what I'll be looking at for the next several days. Alaska's ferry service goes only as far south as Dutch Harbor. Beyond Dutch Harbor lies the rest of the Aleutian Chain. That stretch can be seen from a Navy vessel or a fishing vessel. I am FAR from everything & will be closer to Japan than CA once in Dutch Harbor. Amazing!

Fishing vessels coming back to unload the day's catch.

With salmon season wrapping up, this boat has already loaded up for crab season.

What a REALLY good year of fishing can build on Kodiak's waterfront...

The large background island is Spruce Island, important historic & pilgrimage site for a Russian Orthodox Saint. From a Russian Orthodox Priest on the ferry I learned that the smaller island is where 4 Russian Orthodox nuns live - all year! They are self-sufficient - fishing (no hunting), chop wood, no motor vehicles. Two of them live together & the other two live in solitude. A short boat ride away live 4 monks with a skiff.

Sunset on the water.....

Gonna try to post one more entry before we leave the dock.....

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Final note from Kodiak.....

Disclaimer: Unless I get close to a bear. I WILL report that!

 

Hey Everybody!

In less than 24hrs I will be back on an Alaska Ferry for the 5.5 day round-trip to Dutch Harbor & on to Homer. I have no idea about contact during that leg of the journey, but should be in touch again by the 25th.

So, this Ft. Abercrombie and one of the many happy trees at the state park. I mIght have mentioned it before, but this is a great place to hike in the rain because the canopy keeps you pretty dry.

As a special treat for my surfing friends....

While it might sound a bit unexpected, Alaska is known for some great surfing beaches. Surfers' Beach on Kodiak Island is one of them. I wish I'd been out there on a stormy day when the waves are big, but this is what surfers had on this day.

The Skimin board below was made in Kodiak by a local resident. He has passed away and one of his boards now hangs in the ski/surf shop.

This next pic is specifically for FlatJen's alter ego....I was given a tip that the Deadliest Catch's vessel, Time Bandit, was in Kodiak for repairs. It is pretty well covered up compared to old red here, but that skull logo (or whatever it is) was visible to me. Not so much the camera because I HAD to hurry out of the area. But it's official....FlatJen has shared the ground with Time Bandit. :-)

One of the few things I hadn't done in Kodiak was visit the local fisheries research center -- by the way, very few according to locals who noted only missing a BBQ & climbing to top of the tallest mountain here -- anyway, it has a touch tank & aquarium open to the public. You are looking at: (1) a Christmas Anemone and (2) a fishy blue suede Elvis.

Have I mentioned how quickly Autumn happens here. This place was GREEN when I arrived. In a matter of a couple days some trees had leaves change color & fly away. And...in the last 12 days we have lost at least one hour of daylight.

And that's about wraps up Kodiak. I am currently doing laundry & hope to get to sleep early tonight (up til 12am last night) so I can have one more morning to look for bears :-). As always, thanks for stopping by! I'll be in touch as able.

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