Mother Nature Visits South Georgia too

Hey Everybody,

Before we passengers ride the zodiacs to the S. Georgia shore we first spend nearly 3 days at sea. The journey from Stanley took longer than expected due to some rough weather. Finally, on the 10th we reached the first intended landing site (Salisbury Plain), but weather conditions were poor and we had to keep moving. This was a great disappointment to many of us! Salisbury was referenced REPEATEDLY as one of the best landing sites for wildlife. The best opportunity to see the Macaroni Penguins was at Salisbury; thus we never did see any on the trip.

Some professional photographers were NOT happy with this turn of events - and less so when our second site of the day (Prion Island - excellent for birders) was also ruled out due to the weather. Thus, on the ship we remained until the ship captain & the expedition leader identified an alternate landing site.

Still before we go to shore, you should know we have a bio-security briefing! We have daily cleanup procedures already, but S. Georgia requires more. In this meeting we are given instructions on how to eliminate (or at least significantly reduce) the transfer of any foreign matter to shore. Vacuums are set up on each cabin deck so that we can vacuum both the clothes we expect to wear to shore and the backpacks (inside & out) we carry. Special attention is paid to any velcro because seeds might get stuck there. Additionally, our boots are washed & scrubbed before being dipped in a sanitary rinse.

Welcome to Stromness (an old whaling station), our first land excursion on South Georgia Island.

It turned out to be an unbelievable experience but not for the wildlife. There was some wildlife: small colony of King penguins, antarctic fur seals (belligerent attitude optional), and a few elephant seals hauled out on the beach.

Just a little FYI for any of you who might encounter a fur seal in the future... they like their space. They don't mind your company, but stay on the proper side of the invisible line:-). When they do charge (and they will), don't worry because it's only a false charge. Stand your ground, make yourself big, and bang two rocks together. It works. Do not run....that just means game on!

The weather turned from bad to worse & was by far the worst weather of the entire trip. Look at this calm, sheltered place..hardly seems possible, but...

Winds blew 105mph; seriously! Some of our guides have made 100 polar trips; none of them had ever experienced this in such a sheltered cove. Such a wind is known as a Katabatic wind, and they are common in Antarctica. The wind comes down off the glaciers, speeding up as it goes, and is incredibly cold and fierce as you might have guessed.

Five zodiacs flipped over; staff flew into the water both when trying to secure zodiacs and when trying to drive them. No passengers went in the water, although one woman ended up with bruised ribs when the wind knocked down a much larger male onto her. Dozens of people were stranded on land for hours because there was no safe way back to the ship. The side of the ship was banged up by the anchor - all kind of scratches on it. Not a big deal in the grand picture but reminded us all how quickly conditions can change. And reminded us to pay attention and take seriously guides' instructions to wear a waterproof outer layer, pack an extra layer & carry a pair of dry socks.

I had been on shore in the first group, so was on the ship during the worst of the storm. The ship wasn't much better, but warmer of course: people in chairs sliding around, dishes breaking, and the ship listing approx. 20 degrees at times (felt and looked like much more).

Here are two storm pics (they were taken by another passenger, Rolf):

But alas, fear not for the South Georgia journey is not over yet....

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